While it isn’t exactly Halloween season, skull projects tend to be a staple in my house. With my son loving the various sweaters I’ve made him over the years, I thought I’d share the pattern to one of his favorites – a granny square skull sweater. I let him choose his yarn choice, but you can easily use any colors your prefer to make this gorgeous cardigan.
Materials and Notions
For this pattern, you’ll need:
- Two or more large skeins of black worsted weight yarn (about 500 yards for a size small)
- One or more large skeins of white worsted weight yarn (about 350 yards for a size small)
- One or more large skeins of worsted weight yarn in each background color of choice (about 360 yards for a size small).
- Size H/8 (5 MM) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Blocking board (for blocking)
- Steamer (for blocking)
- Buttons (optional)
Sizes
How to Measure for Custom Sizing
The amount of squares you’ll need for your sweater will depend on the size of the sweater you’re making. For the best fitting sweater, I’d recommend taking your own measurements then dividing by 4 to calculate the amount of squares you’ll need for each measurement. This will give you the most custom true-to- you size.
The measurements you’ll need to take is around the widest part of your chest/torso (dividing it in half to get a front and back measurement before dividing by 4 to get the amount of squares). From the top of yours shoulder down to the length of sweater you want (in general, you’ll want the front and the back panels of the sweater to be the same length).
To get the measurements for the sleeve, you can either do the top of your shoulder by your neck down to your wrist, remembering to remove the width of the front panel squares. Alternatively, you can measure the inseam from your armpit to your wrist with your arm hanging down. For the sleeve width, 16″ or 4 squares across gives a nice puffy sleeve. However, if the widest part of you arm is greater than 16″ around or you’re making the sweater for a baby or toddler, you can adjust the width of the sleeve by adding or subtracting columns of squares from it. It should be noted that if you have an odd number of square columns in your sleeve, you will have to shift the sleeve attachment to the middle of squares on the body of the sweater.
Once you have the width and the length for each of your panels (one back, two front sides, and two sleeves), you’ll multiply the width of each panel by the length to get the number of squares in each panel, them add all the panels together to get the total number of squares.
Standard Sizing Charts
If the math just isn’t mathing for you or you just want to get going without a bunch of measurements and math, below is a chart of some of the standard sizing and how many squares will be needed for each sweater. Due to the sizing of the squares, some sizes are the same size and will just look tighter or baggier on different sizes. I tried not to group more than two sizes together in order to give a wider range of sizes.
Each measurement is in inches using US size garments. The Body width measurement refers to how wide the garment is, not the circumference of the body that will wear it. In order to find the correct body width for you, measure your widest circumference of your chest/torso and divide by 2. Then refer to the chart to find the measurement that is closest yet slightly larger than your number.
Sleeve length refers to the total length from the top of the neckline to the wrist. In order to get the proper amount of squares, first you’ll need to subtract the width from the front panel, then divide by four to calculate how many squares are needed for the sleeves. For example, on a size small the sleeve length is 32″ with an 8″ width on the front panel. Subtracting the 8″ from the 32″ length leaves you with 24″, divided by 4 to give a total of 6 squares length per sleeve.
US Adult Unisex Sizing
| Sizes (US) | XS-S | M-L | XL-2X | 3X-4X | 5X-6X |
| Body Width | 20″ | 24″ | 28″ | 32″ | 36″ |
| Body Length | 24″ | 28″ | 32″ | 36″ | 40″ |
| Sleeve Length | 32″ | 36″ | 36″ | 40″ | 40″ |
| Back Panel | 5 sqs x 6 sqs | 6 sqs x 7 sqs | 7 sqs x 8 sqs | 8 sqs x 9 sqs | 9 sqs x 10 sqs |
| Front Panel (x2) | 2 sqs x 6 sqs | 2 sqs x 7 sqs | 3 sqs x 8 sqs | 3 sqs x 9 sqs | 4 sqs x 10 sqs |
| Sleeve (x2) | 4 sqs x 6 sqs | 4 sqs x 7 sqs | 4 sqs x 6 sqs | 5 sqs x 7 sqs | 5 sqs x 6 sqs |
| Total Squares Needed | 102 squares | 126 squares | 152 squares | 196 squares | 230 squares |
Once you know the amount of squares you’ll need for your sweater, you’ll be able to figure out how many background colors you’ll want to use for your sweater. You can choose as many or as few as you’d like, with more background colors turning this into a great stash busting project.
Abbreviations and Symbols
This chart includes all of the abbreviations and chart symbols used in the pattern. All crochet terms used are in US terms.
| Sc | Sl St | Ch | Hdc | Dc | * * |
| Single Crochet | Slip Stitch | Chain | Half Double Crochet | Double Crochet | Repeat |
| Sl St2tog blo | Sc2tog | Sc blo | FO | st(s) | |
| Slip stitch two together in the back loop only | Single crochet two together | Single crochet in back loop only | Fasten Off | Stitch(es) |
Granny Square Skull Pattern
The majority of this pattern is making a bunch of skull granny squares. The pattern itself can be confusing, but it does get easier the more you make. I included both written instructions (US Crochet terms) and a chart to help visualize how the granny square comes together.
Written Skull Granny Square
Starting with white yarn (or skull yarn of your choice), create magic circle.
Round 1: In magic circle, ch 2, 9 dc into magic circle, ch 5, dc into magic circle, ch 3, dc into magic circle, tighten circle, ch 5, join with a sl st at 2nd ch in beginning of round.
Round 2: ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, 6 sc in ch 5 space of previous round, sl st into ch 3 space, ch 2, 2 dc into ch 3 space, ch 2, sl st into ch 3 space, 6 sc in ch 5 space, sl st into ch 1 at start of round to join, FO.
Switch to background color.
Round 3: Starting in second sc of previous round, do a standing dc ch 3 dc 2 in the same st, dc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in next st, dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in next st (this creates the corner st), dc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, create a corner st in next st (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in same st), dc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc in the space between the last dc and ch 2 of the previous round, dc in next st, create a corner st in next st (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in same stitch), hdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st (skipping the sl st from previous round, working in the first sc of that round), dc in the first st of this round and sl st to join (making the last corner stitch).
Round 4: ch 3 (counts as a dc – or use altdc if you prefer), *create corner st in ch 3 space of previous round (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2), dc in next 9 sts* repeat a total of three times, create last corner st in last ch 3 space, dc in next 8 sts, sl st to top of the starting ch (or in altdc) to join round, FO.
Weave in ends and block to lay flat and for uniform size.
Granny Square Skull Chart
Assemble the Sweater
Once you have all of the squares made and blocked, it’s time to assemble the garment pieces. I used an invisible joining method to connect all of the granny squares, starting with the back piece and the front pieces, then moving to the sleeves. I highly recommend assembling each garment piece separately before joining them together.
Now that all of the individual garment pieces are assembled, align them flat so the back panel, front panels, and sleeves can be aligned and folded in half along the shoulder to be seamed together. Seam the panels together like the image below (with the front panels mirroring the back panel and aligned straight with the outer edges, and the sleeves directly in the center of the back and front panel join).
The final seam to connect the pieces is the inseam. Folding the sweater in half along the shoulders (right where the front and back panels connect) and the sleeves, follow along the diagram below to sew each side and sleeve together. Sleeve 1 and side 1 can be seamed continuously, as can sleeve 2 and side 2.
Ribbed Border and Cuffs
The final step in completing the sweater is adding the ribbed border and cuffs. The border was worked in one continuous piece and at the preference of the receiver, didn’t include buttons. If you’d like buttons on your cardigan, choose one side along the front panel to make button holes in by chaining additional stitches and skipping stitches along the ribbed pattern. Otherwise, continue as followed.
Ribbed Border
Round 1: beginning in the right bottom corner of the front panel with work facing up, sc ch 1 sc 2 in the ch 3 space. working up the front panel, around the neck, and down the left front panel, sc in each st and in every ch 3 space. Sc 2 ch 1 sc 2 in the bottom corner of the left front panel. Along the bottom of the sweater, sc in each st and every ch 3 space until you reach the start of the round. Sc once more in the ch 3 space, then slip stitch to join. Do not cut yarn. Turn work so you start your rows along the bottom of the sweater.
Row 1: ch 7 (or however thick you’d like your ribbing to be), skip the first ch on hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).
Row 2: in round 1, sl st2tog blo, then turn your work to work back up the new row. Sc blo the scs from previous row (6 sts).
Row 3: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the entire bottom of the sweater, ending on row 2. Do not cut yarn. Turn your work to work up the front panels.
Row 4: ch 7 (or however thick your ribbing was for row 1), skip the first ch on hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).
Row 5: sl st2tog blo from last row 2 (then round 1 and row 1 when moving around the panels), turn your work to work back up previous row. Sc blo the scs from previous (6 sts).
Row 6: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
Repeat rows 5 and 6 around the entire front panels and neck, down to the end of row 1. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Cuffs
Due to the sizing of the arms, the cuffs need to be gathered before having the ribbed stitch. Depending on your hands, wrists, and comfort level, you make choose gather the sleeves looser or tighter, but this is the pattern that worked for me. Both cuffs are worked the same.
Round 1: starting at the inseam of the sleeve, sc 2tog around the entire sleeve. This will bring the sleeve to be about 8″ in circumference. Sl st to first sc in round to join, do not cut yarn.
Row 1: ch 7 (or however thick you’d like your ribbing to be), skip the first ch on hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).
Row 2: in round 1, sl st2tog blo, then turn your work to work back up the new row. Sc blo the scs from previous row (6 sts).
Row 3: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around the cuff until both sides meet. Fasten off leaving long tail and seam the ends of the cuff together. Weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy this beautiful granny square skull sweater! If you make one and share it, I would love to see your creations so please tag me on your posts! You can find me mostly on ravelry and instagram.
Happy crocheting!
